Morocco's Extraordinary Donkeys

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By Susan Orlean

The donkey I couldn’t forget was coming around a corner in the walled city of Fez, Morocco, with six color televisions strapped to his back. If I could tell you the exact intersection where I saw him, I would do so, but pinpointing a location in Fez is a formidable challenge, a little like noting GPS coordinates in a spider web. I might be able to be more precise about where I saw the donkey if I knew how to extrapolate location using the position of the sun, but I don’t. Moreover, there wasn’t any sun to be seen and barely a sliver of sky, because leaning in all around me were the sheer walls of the medina—the old walled portion of Fez—where the buildings are so packed and stacked together that they seem to have been carved out of a single huge stone rather than constructed individually, clustered so tightly that they blot out the shrieking blue and silver of the Moroccan sky.

This is such a fantastic description of Fez — it takes me right back! I can’t seem to get Morocco off my mind these days…

A walk through Annapolis

If you’ve been watching the news, you know that the weather’s been pretty miserable around here lately. Yesterday it finally improved slightly (by which I mean it was only in the mid-90s and was slightly less humid) so I finally made it down to Annapolis for a photo walk.

Although I brought my DSLR, I ended up deciding to just work with my iPhone. I’ve been looking at a lot of people-focused street photography recently, and my goal was to practice photographing the people that I came across — something I thought I could do less conspicuously with my iPhone.

Of course, my walk went nothing like I’d planned. (Spoiler alert: there are no real photos involving people in this post. Well, except for my feet — my frequent subjects whenever I’m procrastinating. I mean, they may not be particularly exciting… but they’re always there.)

First of all, Annapolis on a Tuesday afternoon, as it turns out, is an unfortunate choice for shots of people. There were very few people out and about, all of whom were dressed pretty conservatively and liked to make eye contact as you passed them. I think I need a bigger city where people ignore each other.

Second, it was hot. 95 degrees might be cooler than 115, but it’s still pretty damn uncomfortable. So I wound up cutting my walk much shorter than planned. (Of course, now I’m thinking, “Why didn’t I focus on that? Stake out water fountains? Look for packs of legs in shorts?” Lesson learned: next time I’m setting out with a plan.)

Lastly — and I didn’t realize this one until I got home — after awhile, I sort of… forgot about the people. I did what I always do when I’m exploring a new place: I got sucked into the architecture, and the history of the buildings, and the atmosphere, and started focusing on the details that caught my eye. And that wasn’t a complete loss — I got some photos that I really like. But I don’t think it gives you a complete picture of the place.

Then again, maybe that’s a tall order for one photo walk.

Back in Cville again

It felt great to get back to Charlottesville for twenty-four hours this week! I stopped by overnight on my way down to North Carolina and had a little reunion with some old friends.

On Sunday night, I met up with the summer SotL crew (my old theater group). We walked down to the Corner and had a round of beers at Mellow Mushroom, one of my old favorite hangouts. Then, after a stop at Jonathan’s frat, we went to the Historic Downtown Mall for dinner at the Nook.

Crossing Beta Bridge

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Family reunion in Ocean City

Last week, my brother and I drove up to Ocean City, New Jersey for our annual week at the beach with my mom’s side of the family.

Sure, there are more exciting places in the world, but Ocean City is probably my favorite family tradition. How else could nine siblings and twenty-one grandchildren spread out across eight states and three countries possibly keep up with each other? (Well, aside from Facebook…)

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A visit to the National Zoo

Yesterday Jimmy and I took the metro into Washington, D.C. to visit the National Zoo. It was really hot and exhausting, but we had a great time! I was good and stuck to shooting only with my Digital Rebel, and it felt great to get some real practice in. I saw a lot of photographers there with giant telephoto lenses trying to get wildlife shots, but since I don’t have access to that kind of equipment, I tried to focus more on the experience of the zoo, including all the pens and enclosures, zookeepers at work, and the crowds of onlookers. Maybe it’s only apparent to me because I remember the moments in the photos, but what I like about the animal portraits I did get is how they convey different animals’ reactions and interactions with human visitors — whether they were oblivious, indifferent, or downright social.

Also, it must be said: I know Washington, D.C. gets a bad rep sometimes for all the traffic, crime, lack of parking, etc… but despite all that, I love it more every time I visit. The thing is, more than any city I’ve ever seen, D.C. really is a city “for the people,” and that’s thanks in large part to the Smithsonian Institution. I’ve never been anywhere with so much free access to high-quality museum programming — and the zoo was no exception. There was so much for kids and adults alike to do beyond looking at animals — they really never missed a teaching moment, even in the bathroom, lol!

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